This passage was originally written as a part of my application to the 2024 Wine Writers Symposium for the prompt: What is an example of pushing the boundary of wine?
The boundaries of wine are pushing North. As climate change continues to warm our Earth, new regions emerge as not only optional but optimal for producing the new era of fine wine. Along with the physical boundary push comes the question of whether or not fine wine must be produced using European Vinifera grape varieties.
One new region manifesting a global reputation is a collection of Michigan AVAs hugging the mighty freshwater shores of Lake Michigan.
The story of Michigan wine is rich, but not ancient. Our wild Vitis Riparia grapes never made wines that were drunk by kings nor were they around to be traded throughout the Roman Empire. Yet, in my opinion this doesn’t make them any less worthy of respect and admiration when rightfully earned. The Great Lakes hold an almost unfathomable 20% of all freshwater in the world. They are perched atop the United States’ Midwest region like crown jewels, flaunting an increasingly impressive geographic display of natural beauty and bounty. This makes for a one of a kind terroir that I think deserves to be captured authentically in the bottle to express near and far. Lucky for me, I’m not alone in this belief.
Since the introduction of European wine grapes to Michigan in 1974, the climatic conditions have become undeniably more favorable for their cultivation. Throughout those five decades, ambitious viticulturists have experimented with almost every major International grape variety and a plethora of regional varieties like Gamay, Teroldego, Blaufränkisch, and more. This region’s remarkable potential has attracted innovators and an open minded sense of creativity resounds through everyone working toward the goal of making great Michigan wine. The people who live here have a distinctly spiritual connection to the land that is unmistakably similar to the reverence found in many great wine regions of the world. From my perspective, the future success and reputation of fine Michigan wines is less about the ability to produce a world class product and more about the global wine industry’s ability to accept this location as a viable source of the aforementioned product. This boundary being pushed is a necessary progression for an industry notorious for being traditional to a fault.
One producer who is changing the way people conceptualize Michigan wine is Dave Bos of Bos Wine. Dave is the kind of guy that makes you feel like you’re best friends even if you’ve only met a couple of times. That Midwestern warmth is a quality he seems to effortlessly pass to his wines. A former theology major, he truly preaches the good news of regenerative farming and thankfully the farmers of Michigan are listening. The idea that biodynamics is not suited to properly support and protect a vineyard in Michigan is fading away. Dave’s dedication to helping major growers in the Old Mission Peninsula AVA, Leelanau Peninsula AVA, and beyond convert to a more regenerative model is healing the territory and you can taste it in the wines. Bos’s offerings include: cerebral single varietal Riesling and Blaufrankisch, an energetic Chardonnay/Pinot Gris co-ferment, and a surprising red blend utilizing the hybrid grape Marquette alongside the classic Austrian grape Blaufränkisch. To my surprise, the highlight of my summer sips was Bos Wine Methode Agricole, a Valvin Muscat pet-nat that is brimming with life. Upon popping the crown cap, my senses were sent buzzing through meadows of daylilies and trillium, then to a lively bakery to enjoy a fresh pastry full of orange blossom honey. Drinking the wine was as satisfying as jumping in chilly lake Michigan after a sweaty hike: simply rejuvenating. The beauty and complexity Dave has managed to derive from hybrid grapes has changed my perception of their potential in the fine wine space. I hope to see more domestic producers weave hybrid grapes into their existing Vinifera lineups in an equally straightforward way.
Scandinavia, England, Poland, Belgium, Japan, China…the list of new wine producing regions will continue to grow exponentially as our global climate norms rapidly change. Each of these regions is just entering an exciting time of experimentation. They deserve grace and support in figuring out what will define them before being compared to regions (and families) that have been honing their expertise for centuries. I’m on fire with enthusiasm for all of the new wines we will enjoy in the coming 50 years and beyond.
Have you come across any of the winemakers in nearby states working exclusively with hybrids? For example Deidre Keekin (La Garagista) in Vermont or American Wine Project in Wisconsin/Minnesota? Both making outstanding wines.
No wonder you got accepted!