Sicily: An Intersection of History & Progress
A brief history of wine, renewed American fascination, indigenous grapes, and the next generation.
Ciao, dear readers. Today I’m sharing with you a piece I wrote for my divisional newsletter at work this fall. Working in wine distribution means December is a little nutty, but I wanted to get something in your inbox this week. Also, I just booked our flights back to Sicily for next spring, so consider this a celebratory post! I’ve been celebrating my birthday for the better part of this week, so expect a fun roundup of birthday/birth year wine on Wednesday. ‘Til then, to the big island we go…
Mount Etna, or ‘Mamma Etna’ as some locals call her, is the most active stratovolcano in the world and is the most defining physical characteristic of the island of Sicily. The island lies just off the “toe” of mainland Italy’s “boot” in the Mediterranean Sea. Situated about 37 degrees North of the Equator, Sicily displays a typical Mediterranean climate defined by mild, wet winters and long, hot summers. Its wine-growing history begins on the slopes of Mount Etna some 10,000 years ago where natural, wild grape vines grew without human intervention. The people of Etna know that the mountain’s fertile, volcanic soils provide generously for them, while remembering that the volcano can turn destructive at any moment. Hence ‘Mamma Etna’, the provider but also the punisher if necessary. This awareness has fostered a deep respect for the land and understanding of human effects on nature that has helped birth a new era of viticulture in Sicily. I want to explore what exactly has drinkers so infatuated (myself included) with this otherworldly island. First, we must look back in time to (try to) fully understand how Sicilian wine came to be.
Drawing from a deep well, the culture of Sicily has been indelibly defined by the many who have conquered the island throughout history: the Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, French, German, Spanish, Italians, and even the British. Recently, I even discovered that there was a separatist movement post-WWII pushing to make Sicily the 49th US state, preceding Hawaii. That would have made my dream of living there a bit easier, but I digress…
Sicily had a few indigenous groups of people who ruled the island before colonization (Siculi, Socani, Elymi), but it wasn’t until the Greeks arrived in the 8th century BCE that wine was formally introduced to the island. Over the course of 5 centuries, the Greeks planted swaths of vineyards and introduced pruning, varietal selection, bush training, and quality winemaking techniques. Among the varieties introduced from Greece during this time were: Inzolia, Zibibbo, Lucido/Catarratto. Libation, the pouring of wine (or blood) on the ground, was an important practice in ancient Greek religion, indicating reverence for soil. Sicily’s strategic position as a major trading hub made wine economically essential and it was exported all over the Mediterranean.
Then the Romans took power around the 3rd century BCE, strengthening wine merchants by trading Sicilian wine all around the widespread Roman Empire. After the fall of the Roman Empire (826 AD), the Byzantines revived winemaking for religious uses, but it wasn’t long before the Arabs took control and quality viticulture and winemaking suffered due to Islamic beliefs against alcohol. Yet grapes like Muscat of Alexandria or Zibibbo remained in use as table grapes. What the Arabs lacked in contribution to viticultural development, they made up for with the introduction of foods and spices that forever changed how we conceptualize Sicilian cuisine. Some 200 years after the Muslim rule commenced, Normans, Christians descended from Vikings, conquered Sicily in 1061 AD. Viticulture and winemaking were once again an economic essential and wine became an integral part of aristocratic life, thus making Sicilian wine a status symbol of the times. The Normans adopted the Arab food flavors and integrated them into their cooking. The Sicilian attraction to sweet and sour flavor combinations seems to come from the Arabs, a distinguishing quality in typical food and wine of the region today. The cuisine is piquant and entirely different from Italian cuisine. It is important to mention, the Normans adopted more than Arab Cuisine and created a unique blend of Christian-Islamic culture through architecture, dress, literature, and civil service.
After a brief French rule in the 13th century, Peter II of Aragón (Spain) took control of Sicily in 1282. A cultural flourishing occurred under the Aragon rule not only in winegrowing, but with new foods brought by Spanish ships from Mexico throughout the 1500-1600s. Tomatoes, chocolate, squash, cactus, and other items revolutionized Sicilian cuisine once again. A similar cultural flourishing is taking place in Sicily today as the norm for vine growing and winemaking pivots from bulk wine and International varieties to prioritize authenticity, diversity, sustainability, and legacy.
Sicily and its people have been making and exporting wine for centuries, but the attention to quality has never been more focused. A new wave of winemakers rely on the time honored winegrowing traditions of the island in order to produce some of the best wines of Italy. Sicily is truly its own wine continent and thanks to its heterogeneous terrain it is home to many different microclimates. There are the torrid soils of Ragusa province, the coolness of the Apennines, and the breezy and temperate coasts; but the fertile volcanic soils are what Sicily is best known for. Unlike Tuscany, Piedmont, and Veneto, these wines are yet to grace the average American wine list. Yet, the demand continues to increase as younger drinkers demand more authentic and sustainable food and beverage options, inspired by their travels, fascinations, and global awareness. Soon, I predict most wine lists will feature an array of these food friendly and affordable wines, following the influence of current tastemakers.
Vacation in a Glass
This year marks the first summer in over 3 years that there are no travel restrictions between the US and Europe. Subsequently, the “European summer aesthetic” has dominated social media feeds. This may have you asking yourself, “Is everyone I know summering in Italy?” or “Do they have jobs?”. Not to mention, the undeniable influence of the hit show White Lotus, which was a beautiful love letter to Sicily wrapped in an impeccably crafted satire on privilege.
It opened the eyes of average Americans to the beauty, culture, and mystery that lies beyond popular tourist zones like Rome, Venice, Cinque Terre, Positano, etc. I suspect many Americans detect similarities in the cultural melting pot characteristics of Sicily to America, while Sicily maintains that “La Dolce Vita” sexiness that motivates a worldwide fascination with Italian culture. Wine enthusiasts know that enjoying a glass of wine is often more than just thirst quenching, it is an opportunity to experience a unique time and place through the liquid geography captured in each drop.
Indigenous Grape Varieties
In the early 1970s, so-called International varieties like Chardonnay, Cabernet, Merlot, and Syrah were introduced to the island. They adapted impressively well to the growing conditions and brought new interest to wines from this territory. After decades of global warming and an increased focus on wine quality and global perception, more and more growers returned to native Sicilian grapes. The native grapes are better equipped to handle extreme heat and drought than their international counterparts and allow winemakers to showcase wines that are uniquely Sicilian. Beyond the known native grapes, there are a collection of “vitigni reliquia” or “relic grapes” that are characterized by unprecedented organoleptic peculiarities that make them completely unique. Much like the countless ancient monuments scattered throughout Sicily, left behind by each empire that once reigned; these relic grapes survived war, plague, and phylloxera and are a true representation of ancient Sicilian wine heritage. Through the joint efforts of local oenologists, agronomists, and farmers, they have reconstructed the pedigree of the Sicilian vine in order to better understand what it is capable of and how it may be cultivated in the future. Knowing that these relic varieties have survived times of extreme climate conditions makes them an important genetic reserve to reference as the industry moves toward an uncertain climatic future.
The Next Generation
Not only is there a younger generation of winemakers drawing attention to this small island, but for the first time in Sicilian history women are leading the innovation in wine production. Aili Puskar is one of those young women, an American sommelier turned winemaker who found herself living and working in Sicily after falling in love with the land, its people, and the winemaking potential. I originally connected with her during my visit last year to Azienda Agricola COS where she was working. She states, “The exciting part about being here at this moment, as a young female, is that I am not alone. There are many inspiring women here spearheading their own projects, albeit smaller at the moment, but full of passion. The difference here is that people are truly connected to the land; not only to the vineyard, but to the sea, the mountains, Mount Etna. This passion and connection is the driving force behind Sicilian wines becoming so popular.” Rooted in a deep legacy to the land, Arianna Occhipinti is perhaps the most famous name of all, ascending to an almost demigod status since launching her eponymous winery in 2004. Her vineyard and winery is also her home and the manually tended vineyard is enhanced by an incredible vegetable garden, ancient olive trees, plenty of rosemary and other native plants which all add to the biodiversity and terroir of her specific plot. Francesca Planeta is another influential woman who descends from a 17 generation long dynasty of Sicilian winemaking. The Planeta family is largely responsible for the Sicilian wine renaissance in the international context. The winery is present in 5 important Sicilian territories and produces a large range of Siclian and International varietal wines. Francesca devotes her efforts to marketing and hospitality, hoping to cement Sicily among the Olympus of wine destinations worldwide. Sofia Ponzini of Tenute Bosco produces one of the few reds from pre-phylloxera vineyards in the Etna territory. The list of brilliant women cultivating a new culture of winegrowing from the rich Sicilian history and soil goes on and their wines speak for themselves.
“The people behind them are humble, the wines are honest and expressive. We live in a very special place; life is not necessarily the easiest for most people, but the moments spent working to produce these wines, along with the camaraderie of other young winemakers is the story of Sicilian wines, and the motivation to continue.”
Aili Puskar, Vino di Anna
Glou-glou!
This has certainly been the summer of chillable reds going mainstream. The light bodied, fruit forward, quaffable reds of the Frappato & Perricone grapes are a natural progression into the category for any drinkers craving Vin de Soif (thirst quenching wine). A recognizable, earthy edge unique to the Sicilian terroir saves the wines from being utter fruit bombs. Even wines of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio (Etna Rosso) can benefit from a light chill, and when drunk on a hot day you can be transported to the middle of the Mediterranean for a lot cheaper than a flight there will run you. “Currently the trend among up and coming winemakers is to make wines more “drinkable” and approachable; the goal is not to create a Barolo that we need to wait a minimum of 10 years to drink.”, says Aili. Etna Rosso offers approachable yet cerebral wines and an incredible bang for buck which first caught my attention as an exotic and affordable alternative to Red Burgundy. Similarly, Cerasuolo di Vittoria (Sicily’s only DOCG wine) which showcases a signature blend of Nero d’Avola and Frappato grown mostly in sandy red soils, displays an undeniably vibrant cherry color and layered savory aromatics. The history of this style dates back to the founding of the commune of Vittoria in 1607. Wines are aged 8 months for Rosso and 18 months for the Classico designation and alcohol must be a minimum of 12.5%. Although Southern Italy is known for its rich and high alcohol wines, this minimum level of ripeness is often difficult in Vittoria. The grapes struggle to achieve ripeness in hotter years, because the vines enter a state of dormancy during peak heat in order to preserve resources. As a result, these lower lying vineyard territories will naturally produce lighter bodied, lower alcohol wines due to this phenomenon.
Respect is a word used over and over again when hearing the stories of Sicilian wine growers. Respect for tradition and respect for the territory are paramount. I think this authenticity helps attract the younger wine enthusiasts, who are known to value the authenticity of the brands and businesses they support. Over 30% of all vineyards in Sicily are grown organically, and considering the fact that Sicily has more area under vine than any other Italian wine region, this is a massive feat.
Overall, when reaching for a modern Sicilian wine you can feel confident that it was grown with respect for the environment, crafted under the influence of ancient tradition, and will provide a unique wine drinking experience unlike any other wines of the world. A few of my favorites in our portfolio this season are: Tasca Tenuta Regaleali Le Rose, Tenuta Bosco Vico Etna Rosso, Tornatore Etna Bianco & Rosso, Santa Tresa Frappato, Planeta La Segreta Grillo, Giovanni Rosso Etna Bianco.
In conclusion, I can’t help but wonder if the return to indigenous grapes in the name of diversity and sustainability is a framework we will see implemented in other major wine regions in the near future. Will the definition of wine soon need to expand to include wine produced with fruit outside of the European Vinifera family in some new world regions? It’s hard to imagine but could be reality sooner than we think. Check out ABV (Anything But Vinifera) to learn more. As always, enjoy the wine that is in your glass today because you will never be able to taste that exact moment in time and space again.
What an amazingly in-depth writing! Brava Caroline! so happy that you'll be back here soon :)